California Travel Insider

Sacramento California Everthing Old is New

Along the Waterfront In Old Sacramento by Barbara L. Steinberg© 

Looking for something to wile away the hours on a quiet afternoon or evening? Or a romantic getaway to surprise that someone special? Let me just say two words...Old Sacramento! Okay, I know you’re thinking, “That old place!” Until recently, I would have agreed. Then I was asked to write an insider’s exposé—put a new spin on an old topic. 

Not unlike many Sacramento natives, I rarely look to this historic destination for my local entertainment. Sometimes, when guests need to kill a few hours we wander down to the waterfront. Otherwise, frankly, it’s off the radar. Some in-depth research was necessary to prime my creative juices. Hoping for the best, I headed off to immerse myself in the subject. Little did I know this would lead to many great discoveries and the knowledge that Old Sacramento defines the adage, “Everything old is new again.”

Follow along for more:

 In the years preceding the California gold discovery, the settlement at Sutter’s Fort was forsaken and life began anew on the nearby Sacramento waterfront. The world rushed to New Helvetia--as it was once known--and the bustling community along the Sacramento River became the economic engine of the region, as it is today.  The Rest of the Story...

   Old Sacramento isn’t just about grabbing a quick bite on the run. Although, for those on a tight schedule, there’s more than enough places to dine and dash. Personally, I never considered it a dining destination. What a mistake! My list of 1,000 places I must eat before I die just increased! The Rest of the Story...
   

 The list of things to see and do really took me by surprise. Of course, I was well-aware that Old Sacramento is part of a 28-acre California State Historic Park, a California Historical Landmark, and National Historic Landmark; so this tells you it’s something pretty special. The Rest of the Story....

             

Less is more when it comes to lodging in Old Sacramento; in this case, the two alternatives offer incredible diversity. The historic Delta King and the contemporary Embassy Suites both deliver stellar river views and memorable dining possibilities. The Rest of the Story....

Yosemite's Bracebridge: A Once in a Lifetime

The Bracebridge lottery of yore ended many years ago! by Barbara L. Steinberg

I was always fond of visiting new scenes, and observing strange characters and manners. Even when as a mere child I began my travels, and made many tours of discovery into foreign parts and unknown regions of my native city, to the frequent alarm of my parents, and the emolument of the town crier. -Washington Irving

The highly-coveted Bracebridge Dinner tickets were once available by lottery only, but no more! In fact, tickets and packages for the eight performances are easily purchased online!

As a witness to this historic holiday extravaganza, in your dreams you will see, feel, and hear the merrymaking; awestruck as Bracebridge whirls around you. This dazzling spectacle is set in one of the most blessed places on earth, Yosemite National Park. It is the experience of a lifetime!

This legendary celebration, adapted from Washington Irving's "Sketch Book," marks its 86th year this December. Trumpets announce the arrival of Squire Bracebridge and presentations of food are made on cue by the sounding of chimes during the performance.  The main dining room of The Ahwahnee Hotel is transformed into an Elizabethan Yuletide pageant. Elaborate props, costumed characters, and period entertainment bring this 17th-century fête to life along with a seven-course dinner.

Consider taking Amtrak to Merced and then YARTS (Yosemite Regional Transportation System) to Yosemite Lodge. Once in the Valley, you can ride shuttles; plus there's a special Bracebridge shuttle to and from The Ahwahnee Hotel, the backdrop for Bracebridge. Many people are reluctant to travel in the snow and with efforts to cut gas consumption using alternative transit is a real bonus. Of course, if you're staying at the Wawona Hotel you will need your vehicle. 

 

California is the Color Autumn

FALL FOLIAGE IN CALIFORNIA:  Places to Go, Colors to See by Barbara L. Steinberg

As the summer’s golden, sun-filled hours gradually shorten and the evening air turns crisp and cool, Mother Nature takes her cue to begin a spectacular and colorful show of fall foliage in the Golden State.  Autumn’s palette of deep reds, glowing yellows and warm, earthy browns may be enjoyed in many of California’s regions.  Visitors taking a relaxing drive, hike or bicycle ride through the scenic countryside will be instantly immersed in the season’s breathtaking beauty.  

Here are some of the more popular places to view fall colors in California.  The Rest of the Story....

Sacramento California Greets Hawaiian Chieftain

Nautical Past Sailed into Sacramento's Present

This artifact from our nautical past, sailed up the Sacramento River in regal style on October 12th and will be here on the waterfront in Old Sacramento through December 15th. 

Hawaiian Chieftain will also open for walk-on tours to the general public. Most tours are scheduled for Tuesday through Friday, 4 p.m. to 5 p.m., and Saturdays and Sundays, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. A $3 donation per person is appreciated.

  Here's the Rest of the Story about the Visiting Hawaiian Chieftain....

California Trains Invite You to Come Aboard

CALIFORNIA "IRON HORSES" ARE STILL ON TRACK
Story & Photos by Barbara L. Steinberg

No sound is more thrilling then the shrill whistle of a train as it rumbles down the tracks.  Visitors to California's many railroading attractions will be thrilled beyond their wildest dreams.  California's railroad history dates back to the 1860s, and much of this history is alive and well, preserved in numerous railroad museums, excursions and attractions around the State.

In California, railroad attractions can be a day's outing or an entire vacation.  Journey into the past aboard restored vintage train coaches and cabooses, ride 1/4-scale model passenger cars through exquisitely landscaped gardens, explore refurbished depots and roundhouses, browse through gift shops for momentos of your railroading expedition, or experience the dream of a lifetime and learn to operate a working diesel locomotive.

Excursions on vintage or modern trains are definitely the highlight of railroading adventures in California.  Visitors will be transported  through some of the state's most beautiful scenery -- bountiful vineyards and agriculturally rich valleys; the magnificent Sierra Nevada or snowcapped Mt. Shasta; a grove of 1000-year-old redwoods or dramatic coastal vistas. 

A wide variety of railroading festivals and special events are sponsored by railroad organizations year-round.  The festivals showcase all types of railroad cars and paraphernalia and give visitors a glimpse into the fascinating past of California railroads.

 The following is a selection of organizations dedicated to the preservation of railroading in California.

California State Railroad Museum, 111 'I' St., Sacramento, CA  95814;
24-Hour Information - (916) 445-6645  or Museum Front Desk - (916) 323-9280.
Part of California's State Park system the museum, the largest of its kind in the U.S., houses 21 restored locomotives and cars.  A variety of exhibits and interpretive displays depict the history of Western railroading.  The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, except Christmas & New Years.  Excursions on a steam-powered train are available on weekends April through September; and special event trains operated Oct. - Dec. and holidays.  Steam-powered excursion trains depart on-the-hour from the Central Pacific Railroad Freight Depot in Old Sacramento (located just two blocks south of the Railroad Museum on Front Street, between "J" and "K" streets).  Always check ahead to confirm ticket rates.  (PLEASE NOTE: Ticket prices for special "theme trains" may be higher.)

Amtrak, (800) USA - RAIL.  Experience all that California has to offer from north to south and all points in between.  Amtrak offers a wide variety of train experiences.  From Sacramento, take a leisurely ride on the "Capitol" for a day of shopping and sightseeing in San Francisco; experience California's best beaches aboard the "Coast Starlight”; take a ride through Gold Country and the Sierra Nevada aboard the "California Zephyr” or enjoy views of California’s lush Central Valley from the “San Joaquin” which travels from Sacramento to Bakersfield.

Barstow Station, 1611 E. Main St., Barstow, CA  92311, (760) 256-0366.  Shopping and dining complex features unique railroad station with converted 1900-era passenger cars and caboose. Convenietnly located on Historic Route 66.

California Western "Skunk" Trains, 100 Laurel St., Fort Bragg, CA  95437, or 299 E. Commercial St., Willits, CA  95490, (707) 964-6371 or (866) 457-5865.  The yellow "Skunk" trains, named for their original gas engines, promoted the saying, "You can smell 'em before you can see 'em."  California Western operates two "Super Skunks" down 40 miles of track between Ft. Bragg and Willits.  Full-and half-day trips, originating from both Fort Bragg and Willits, depart daily throughout the year.

Fortuna Depot Museum, 3 Park St., Fortuna, CA  95540, (707) 725-7645.  Built in 1893 for Northwestern Pacific, the restored building was moved to Rohnert Park in 1976.  Major displays include railroading and logging memorabilia.  Open daily, Noon-4:30pm, June-Aug; open Thursday-Sunday, Noon-4:30pm, Sept. - May.

Laws Railroad Museum & Historical Site, Hwy. 6 to Silver Canyon Road, Bishop, CA  93514, (760) 873-5950.  Listed on the National Registry of Historic Places and California State Historical Landmark #953, Laws' is full of treasures from the past.  Eleven acres of restored buildings include the original 1883 depot and agent's house.  Highlights include the "Slim Princess Narrow Gauge Train," the self-propelled 1920s Blue Goose and an impressive collection of railroad cars.  The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Napa Valley Wine Train, 1275 McKinstry St., Napa, CA  94559, (707) 253-2111 or (800) 427-4124 (reservations).  This excursion train carries passengers through the heart of California's most famous wine-producing region.  On the 36-mile round trip from Napa to St. Helena, passengers can enjoy wine tasting, luncheon or dinner service aboard elegantly refurbished 1915-vintage Pullman parlor cars drawn by classic 1950s diesel locomotives. The food, wine and service are all 5-star! Increase that star quality and include other local wineries and tastings pre- or post-lunch. Downtown Napa has a multitude of tasting rooms to round out your visit.

Niles Canyon Railway/Depot Museum, 5550 Niles Canyon Rd., Sunol, CA 94586, (925) 862-9063; museum is lcoated at t37952 Niles Boulevard, Fremont, CA, (510) 797-4449.  Operating on nine miles of ex-Southern Pacific right-of-way, the railway maintains eleven steam locomotives, eight internal combustion locomotives, several passenger cars and a 1924 caboose.  Visitors can enjoy a 55-minute, 5-1/2 mile excursion the first and third Sundays of each month between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. 

Orange Empire Railway Museum, 2201 S. A Street, Perris, CA  92570, (951) 943-3020.  Organized by electric car enthusiasts, the museum features dozens of restored trolleys, interurban and locomotives.  The display includes more than 20 passenger cars and a three-foot narrow gauge, vintage 1880s western railroad collection.  The museum sponsors several special events, which are listed online.  Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., electric streetcar and interurban excursions are offered on weekends only. Avaiable year-round is the "Run One" which allows visitors to operate a locomotive.

Western Pacific Railroad Museum, End of Western Pacific Way, Portola, CA  96122, (530) 832-4131.  Founded to preserve rolling stock and artifacts from the Western Pacific Railroad, the museum is operated by the Feather River Rail Society.  The museum is open the first Saturday in March through the first Monday in November, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.  Railroad enthusiasts from around the world come for the chance to operate a working diesel locomotive.  Dedicated to families, weekend caboose rides cost $2.00 for as many rides as you want. 

Roaring Camp & Big Trees Narrow-Gauge Railroad Santa Cruz, Big Trees & Pacific Railway, Graham Hill Rd., Felton, CA  95018, (408) 335-4484. Roaring Camp's steam logging trains climb the steepest narrow-gauge grade in North America through virgin redwood forests to the top of Bear Mountain.  A re-creation of an Old-West logging camp, Roaring Camp is the starting point for two railroads that carry passengers through the redwood forests and to Santa Cruz Beach.  Santa Cruz, Big Trees & Pacific Railway's diesel operated railroad offers 2-1/2 hour sightseeing excursions aboard historic 1920s-era passenger coaches from the SP Felton Depot, through the San Lorenzo River Gorge and down to Santa Cruz.  Both trains operate year round. 

Railtown 1897 State Historic Park, Sierra Railway Depot, End of 5th Avenue, Jamestown, CA  95327, (209) 984-3953.  Sierra Railway trains have been featured in more than 200 television shows, movies and commercials, including "Bonanza" and "High Noon."  View the Back to the Future III set on the two-hour "Keystone Special" or take the "Twilight Limited" followed by a barbecue dinner at the park.  Railtown offers excursions Saturdays and Sundays only, March - November.

San Diego Model RR Museum, 1649 El Prado, San Diego, CA   92101, (619) 696-0199.  Four layouts of operating model railroads, covering 21,000-sq.-ft., depict aspects of San Diego railroad history.  Interactive displays for children.  The museum is open Tuesday-Friday, 11am-4pm; Saturday and Sunday, 11am-5 pm.  Railroad memorabilia available at gift shop.  Children under 15 are free when accompanied by an adult.

San Diego Railroad Museum/San Diego & Arizona Railway, 1050 Kettner Blvd., San Diego, CA  92101, (619) 478-9937.  The restored 1894 depot-museum houses memorabilia and antiques from the Southern Pacific.  The San Diego Railroad Museum located off Highway 94 at Campo, conducts walking tours of the freight yard and restored vintage equipment and excursions on historic passenger trains.  Open weekends only 9am-5pm.

Sonoma Traintown Railroad, Broadway (Hwy. 12), Sonoma, CA  95476, (707) 938-3912.  Travel through 20 acres of landscaped parks, bridges and tunnels on the most well-developed scale-model railroad in America.  Twenty minute train rides leave every half hour.  Open daily.  Wheelchair accessible train car.  Adults $3.75; Children and Seniors $2.35.

Sacramento River Train, E. Main St. & Thomas, Woodland, CA  95695, (916) 372-9777.  Pulled by a 1930s diesel locomotive, this 2-1/2 hour round-trip excursion crosses the Yolo Byway via the wooden, 8,000-ft. Fremont Trestle and offers views of scenic Yolo County farmland and the Sacramento River.  Trains depart from Woodland every Sunday, May - Labor Day, with special excursions on Columbus Day and Thanksgiving.

Western Railway Museum, 5458 State Highway 12, Suisun City, CA  94585, (707) 374-2978. Visitors have the rare opportunity to ride historic streetcars and interurban electric trains from California and other western states. Streetcars loop the shaded picnic grounds. Interurban cars run over the restored main line of the old Sacramento Northern Railway. With more 50 historic cars on display, railway exhibits, the Museum Store and Gift Shop and the large, shaded picnic grounds, the Western Railway Museum is ideal for family and group outings. This is a one-of-a-kind!

Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad, 56001 Hwy. 41, Fish Camp, CA  93623, (559) 686-4636.    Four miles from Yosemite National Park's south entrance on Highway 41, this narrow-gauge steam engine operates on the same tracks once used by turn-of-the-century logging trains.  Gold panning; gift shop, museum and bookstore feature railroad memorabilia and souvenirs.  Open daily, mid-March - October. 

Railroad Lodging

Featherbed Railroad Bed & Breakfast Resort, 2870 Lakeshore Blvd., Nice, CA  95464, (707) 274-8378 or (800) 966-6322.  A cozy bed and breakfast resort, Featherbed Railroad's nine caboose guest rooms contain full baths and comfortable featherbeds. Located in beautiful Lake County overlooking Clear Lake. Relax and enjoy great outdoor adventures.

Napa Valley Railway Inn, 6503 Washington Street, Yountville, CA  94599, (707) 944-2000.  Nine railroad car suites on the original tracks of the Napa Valley Railroad in picturesque Yountville.

Rail Road Park & Resort, 100 Railroad Park Road, Dunsmuir, CA  96025, (530 ) 235-4440.  Railroad Park has guest rooms, dining areas and a lounge -- all in authentic railroad cars. 

 

Good Luck & Green Abounds in Murphys California

Murphys is the Best of California Green & Gold by Barbara L. Steinberg 2011
The wonder of California is that you never know what to expect. This year, we have been blessed (by some accounts) with an onslaught of winter weather. Murphys was dressed in winter white just days after experiencing unseasonably warm temperatures. But spring is just around the corner and the hills are beckoning. Don't wait. 

After many months of little or no rain Calaveras County’s landscape of rolling hills and valleys is a brilliant gold.  Farm fields are stunning in contrast to the deep green of live and valley oaks and pine. Winter rains bring much needed sustenance to a parched and, yet, picturesque countryside; a renewal and regeneration. It’s spring! The days are getting longer and warmer. Though distant mountain tops may be dressed in winter white, the foothills are awakening from their golden slumber replaced by a verdant terrain. 

Bursting with jubilance and proud of its fine Irish roots, the tiny village of Murphys personifies all that is green, especially in spring. The traditional Irish Day celebration, March 19, 2011, is all about the green. Each year, as if by magic, a huge green shamrock appears at the town’s only 4-way intersection. Tiny Main Street – all .8 miles of it – is brimming with merrymakers clad in their finest and funniest Irish greenery. Irish music, storytellers, food, and an authentic hometown parade make this a memorable event. To alleviate the traffic congestion, free parking and a shuttle are available at Ironstone Vineyards. 

While honing your green spirit, nearby Irish Vineyards is a must. Their award-winning green wine, Slaite – Gaelic for welcome – is available for tasting during this fête. But only as long as supplies last and supplies are very (very) limited! On Murphys Irish Day, the Irish family (yes, that’s their name) offers all things green including hot pepper-jelly cheesecake, cupcakes and shamrock cookies, and Celtic music…and it’s all free, so forget about the green! 

When not openly celebrating their Irish heritage, Murphys is still a celebration of green.  There are many dining choices for such a Leprechaun-sized locale…plan ahead and arrive hungry. Even if you aren't a vegetarian, the up-scale Mineral Restaurant puts a new perspective on green-eating. The Black Steel Cauliflower with Red Wine Tapioca Caviar is anything but black including an accessory of micro greens. Medjool Samble Tempeh with candied kumquats and confit of fennel is an exotic journey. Chased by Peanut Butter Chocolate Truffles and a Guava Sake Elixir, one of their many sake potions...Superb! Small plates, artistically designed by Executive Chef Steve Rinauro, are as pleasing to the eye as they are tempting to the palate. Most ingredients are organic and locally grown. “People who stumble upon us, say, ‘Wow!’” remarked Maya Radisch, owner. “We wanted to create something that can’t be duplicated at home.”  The husband and wife team have succeeded.

Off the lobby of the Victoria Inn you’ll find V Restaurant. Before finding his pot of gold in Murphys, owner and Chef Bob Anderson had a 20-year run as head chef at The Ahwahnee Hotel. The Mediterranean-inspired menu is geared towards a varying clientele and includes everything from tempting ‘small plates’ to Petite Lamb chops with lavender salt and pomegranate molasses. A wee bit of the green comes in the form of fried Spanish olives stuffed with anchovies. Seriously, they are divine. More than one person remarked that “V” is the best in town. In green terms, the 35-seat café defines small footprint and sustainable philosophies. Chef Bob makes use of local organic products, and recycles everything.

The Victoria Inn and its sumptuously-appointed rooms and suites offer a fuel-friendly option in the heart of Murphys street life. Park your car and spend a couple of days exploring; it’s just that simple. Many of the county’s 24 wineries have tasting rooms (16) on Main Street. An array of outstanding eateries, interesting shops, galleries, historic landmarks and museums provide more than enough amusement, all within walking distance of the inn. You won’t have to go far to enjoy more of Murphys culinary fortunes:  Alchemy Market & Wine Bar/Café, Grounds, Firewood, Aria Bakery, and Nelson’s Candies (to name a few) are all Main Street essentials. Choose your level of comfort at Victoria Inn: fireplaces and spa tubs, king beds or queen sleigh, luxury or cozy…it’s all delightful and includes a continental breakfast.

For a tranquil and leafy retreat, The Cottages at La Honda Park are a fantastic antidote. Once ramshackle and rickety, the cottages and main house are a tribute to recycling. Beautifully restored and utilizing many cast-offs, each of the themed rooms is comfort supreme. The Park sits on the edge of Angels Creek and an old weir – the sound of cascading water is spellbinding. With six secluded acres, the natural setting is home to many birds and wildlife. Old-fashioned and energy-free pleasures include playing bocce ball and pitching horseshoes, or even casting a line in the creek. This quiet respite is just one-mile from the bustle of Main Street.  An ideal setting for family gatherings and group events, the Main House includes three bedrooms and 2-1/2 baths, a full kitchen, and cozy creekside porch. The newly-restored barn built from many of the original materials, is a cozy recreation area with fireplace, pool table, foosball, darts, and board games makes. The original barn doors open onto the creek. 

If a winery tour is what you desire, Murphys Cab Company will take you anywhere you want to go. A comfortable seven-passenger van and guide are available by reservation. An outing into the greening countryside should include Chatom Vineyards and Twisted Oak Winery. The Barn, circa 1882 and wonderfully rickety, across from Indian Rock Vineyards, sells local organic products including sun-dried tomatoes, roasted peppers, and Vallecito pickled peppers, for which they are famous, and regional crafts.

You can’t come to Murphys without visiting Ironstone Vineyards; particularly if you’re looking for the best of the green and gold. By reducing water use, maintaining healthy soil, and restoring wildlife habitat, sustainable viticulture is rule number one at Ironstone.

This time of year, the vineyards are flexing their limbs and coming to life, but the real spectacle is the flowers. More than 32 tons of bulbs including 250 varieties of daffodils, tulips, iris and crocus bulbs put on show that will, yes, make you green with envy. The naturalized setting and backdrop of Ironstone gardens provide an ideal canvas for this floral display. Just try to resist a little jig.  

A Spring Obsession (March 5-6, 2011) celebrates the release of Ironstone’s most popular wine, Symphony Obsession. A juried art exhibit, incredible food, cooking demonstrations, and daffodils are the focus of the weekend. Daffodil Days (March 19-20, 2011) is sponsored by the Northern California Daffodil Society. More than 600 hundred varieties of potted and cut flowers are on display at Ironstone.  Mother Nature has the final call on the daffodil bloom. Early spring temps may wake the daffs from their slumber, but a sudden return to winter is just as often Nature's way. If you miss the golden “lent lilies,” mid-March through April the Ironstone tulips put on an outrageous display. The gardeners work throughout the summer months on maintaining a fabulous array of seasonal colors.

With or without the floral embellishments, a visit to the winery is a full-day adventure. The gardens, tasting room and wine cave, art displays, Alhambra Theatre pipe organ, world's largest crystalline gold-leaf specimen (44 pounds) and Heritage Museum are just some of the stellar pastimes awaiting you. Free guided tours are offered three times daily.

For such a small town, Murphys has oodles of diversions favoring every possible interest – and the luxuriant spring topography is the treasured gold at this rainbow’s end.  Murphys’ founders would be proud of their Irish legacy. A new generation of locals are finding that the grass is greener on the other side. “The people are awesome!” said Barbara and Alan Hart. “You’ll never meet a stranger in Murphys.” 
Enjoy more images of Murphys!

 

           

 

Sacramento California Holiday Cheer

Sacramento California A Most Wonderful Time  by Barbara L. Steinberg© 

So much to see and do this time of year. Down in Old Sacramento, the holiday tree is really stunning against the backdrop of historic buildings. Over in Midtown, there are other colorful lighting sights of the season in store fronts and throughout the neighborhoods. 

Though a permanent fixture on the Westfield Downtown Plaza, the Venetian Carousel seems particularly festive this time of year. Fun for kids and grown-ups, the Italian-made carousel sits outside Macy's near River City Brewing and operates daily. Bundle up and go for a spin.

Sacramento's annual Santa Parade will roll through town at 10:00am on December 11th. Celebrate the holiday season with a special visit from Santa Claus. The parade begins at Sacramento City Hall and travels down I Street and turns on 13th street past the convention center and the IMAX Theatre. It turns again on L Street and continues past the State Capitol and Hyatt Regency Sacramento. The parade makes its final turn on 7th Street and ends at the Westfield Downtown Plaza Mall and Ice Rink at 7th and K streets. When all is said and done, swing by Sacramento's stunning Citizen Hotel -- a shining star in the Joie de Vivre Hotel constellation.

Make this a full day of fun and exploration. Two-hour parking garage validations are provided with $5 purchase in Old Sacramento and Downtown Plaza. So how about a little Santa, some skating, and shopping to round-out your Saturday...that's a lot of 'Ss!" Check out shops in Old Sacramento that carry California-made gifts at Taylor's Art & Soul or Visions of Eden. Don't miss Sacramento Sweets...there's nothing quite so wonderful as warm taffy! And a little holiday cheer might include wine tasting at Discover Calfiornia Wine Bar & Tasting Room.

This Holiday season Midtown visitors can enjoy free off-street parking will d last through Christmas day, Dec. 25th. The Midtown free parking zone extends from I to L streets and from Front Street to 29th Street. Free parking will start at 4:30 p.m. on weekdays and all day Saturday & Sunday. Please be advised that only metered, on-street parking spaces apply. Additionally, free parking is always available for your first 90 minutes at Midtown's East End garage located at 17th Street between L Street & Capitol Avenue.

      

Agritourism is About People Getting Close to the Land

California's Small Farms & Ranches are Agritourism Friendly 
Story & Photos by Barbara L. Steinberg

 

Near Fairfield and just off Interstate 80, the turn-in at Erickson Ranch is almost as obscure as the road that leads you there. The driveway, dirt and gravel, is bordered by orchards and aging farm equipment. The “parking  lot” has no striping, but hay bales act as bumpers. Exiting your vehicle, you are likely to be greeted by a pack of tail-wagging farm dogs – old labs, some terriers, and a cheerful pit bull named Rocky.

Farmers Ray and Victoria Erickson lead a life from days-gone by and one that you may envy. A third-generation farmer, Ray’s known farming his entire life; his grandparents farmed this same land.  After a complete remodel, he and Victoria moved back to the family farm about six years ago.  But to maintain this life on the land they work hard. Really hard! Victoria’s day job is that of a full-time RN. While Ray, spends his days plowing, planting, pruning, and picking. During their agritourism season they are open to the public six days a week!

“The ranch has become more of everything,” said Victoria. “Originally it was just a farm stand.” One thing led to another. The Erickson’s increased their dried fruit production – the most popular item is their Blenheim apricots. Then Victoria started making jams and apple butter and they acquired a chili roaster. They also grow cut flowers, which are popular with local brides who cut their own bouquets. According to Victoria, the number of visitors has increased and the visitor type has changed. “It used to be mostly women who were canning and wanted a variety of fruit,” she said. “Now, we’re getting more families – folks who want to see where food comes from. Lots of people from the Bay Area have discovered us.”

A 2009 survey conducted by the UC Davis Small Farm Program (SPF) showed that many of California’s small farms are reaping the benefits of agritourism. Of the 554 responses (2,000 surveys were mailed), 332 farmers identified themselves as conducting agricultural tourism. “The total number of respondents hosted more than 2.4 million tourists,” said Penny Leff, SPF Agtourism Coordinator. “But this doesn’t account for the farmers who didn’t respond. Clearly there are many more people visiting. The Dell'Osso Pumpkin Maze in Lathrop had 140,000 visitors last year. That’s a huge number!”

According to the survey, farmers are looking to increase revenues from direct sales and/or event fees.  More farms are figuring out how to do weddings – especially wineries – and events in orchards. The survey found that pumpkin patches and corn mazes have become incredibly popular.  Erickson’s has a small pumpkin patch as one of their seasonal offerings.  Not far away in Dixon, Cool Patch Pumpkins’ roadside pumpkin stand has evolved into the “world’s largest corn maze” authenticated by the Guinness World Book of Records.  The combined effort attracts thousands of people each year. 

“Wineries are still the most popular part of agritourism,” according to Penny Leff.  “The wineries taught everyone else...set an example...of how to do it." To prove her point, try a visit to Fairfield’s Suisun Valley. Equidistant between Sacramento and San Francisco, just a few years ago there were only two tasting rooms in  the valley. The numbers are multiplying and agritourism is flourishing. Vezér Family Vineyard and Blue Victorian Winery owned by Frank and Liz Vezér are but two of the newcomers. The wineries welcome guests to their tasting rooms and provide a spectacular backdrop for weddings, meetings, and concerts. Both the Blue Victorian and Ledgewood Creek (another Suisun Valley winery) offer guests and groups the rare occasion to enjoy the agricultural setting, a wonderful glass of wine, and a little bocce ball.

Agritourism is also about education. Rush Ranch Open Space and the Center for Land Based Learning are prime examples. Both offer educational opportunities on the importance of farming and the preservation of the land. Interpretive displays, living history, wagon rides, docent-led hikes, and team building opportunities are closely tied to agritourism programs and bringing guests close to the land. Craig McNamara, owner of Sierra Orchards, founded the Center to educate students about agriculture.  “Educational field days elicit a huge amount interest even with adults to come see the farm,” said Marion Adams, Center for Land Based Learning. “And there’s a huge trend for farm weddings.” Revenues generated from special events help support both nonprofits.

Day-of coordinator Genevieve Roja, owner of Lily Spruce, loves the Center for Land Based Learning. “The facility is gorgeous – the 100-year-old house is and a huge olive tree-lined drive leading up to house. It’s like something from a movie,” she said. “Some clients are more thoughtful andI  encourage them to use as much local produce as possible. Someone who interested in recycling and composting.“ All of this is part of the Center’s philosophy, too.

Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) is the growing trend for smaller farms according to Penny Leff.  “You become a member and get fresh produce delivered from the farm.” The CSAs have open-house days for members and invite you to the farm and do tours. “It’s a direct connection to fresh food and a place for families to visit,” said Penny.  Eat Well Farms near the Center for Land Based Learning does everything from Summer Solstice to Pumpkin Harvest events for their members. 

The “from farm to table” principles are growing and many more people are seeking out local farms and agricultural programs as getaways. Farm and wine trails exist as far south as San Diego County and in Tehama County to the north.

Back at Erickson Ranch, a tall and lanky Ray is the picture-perfect farmer. Torn jeans, mustache, and broad-brimmed hat. “People come here to see Ray,” says Victoria. “They want to talk to the person who does this and Ray loves to share his story.”

Yosemite National Park dresses up with fall color

Autumn Colors Paint Yosemite Valley Photo by Keith Walklet

Falling for Yosemite 
by Barbara L. Steinberg©

 For most of us, Labor Day signaled the unofficial end of summer.  Vacations are over.  Kids are back in school. It was the last bonafide summer holiday weekend and, from this point forward it’s a slow, steady slide into the New Year.

Each year, the Fall Equinox occurs around September 23rd. The sun crosses the celestial equator, from north to south, heralding the end of summer and marking the official start of autumn. Professed or scientific – it’s autumn!  The days are shorter; shadows are longer; nights are cooler; and you can feel the change in the air.  It’s inspirational!  It’s also one of the best and most inspired times of year to visit Yosemite National Park!

When it comes to visiting Yosemite, fewer travelers visit in this “off-season.”  Annually, millions of people throng to see the splendor of the granite cliffs, cascading falls, giant sequoias, and the grandeur made famous by the likes of John Muir and Ansel Adams.  During late spring and throughout the summer months, Yosemite is teeming with guests from around the world.  There’s more traffic and making lodging reservations, especially within the park, can be a challenge.  Post-summer, the visitor-tide ebbs and the Park begins an unhurried progression into a seasonal hibernation.  Fewer cars on the roads in, out, and around the park, is definitely a big plus. The availability of lodging – at all levels – is much more attainable.  And rates start to fall, ever so slightly, usually towards the end of October. 

The autumn weather remains comfy with daytime temps warm enough for shorts and river sandals such as Teva and Keen; nights can be chilly but cozy – even more so as the autumn season evolves. Changes in temperatures and weather should be considered when packing.  Better to err on the conservative side – the layered approach is usually best – and remember that rain and early snow is always a possibility; come prepared.

Yosemite Valley is famous for its colorful dogwoods – shades of pink and red; and California live oaks turn a golden amber color mid-October to November.  Throughout the season aspens adorn themselves with seasonal hues.  The onset of autumn colors can’t be timed.  Lengthening nights and colder temperatures signal the change. So in other words, later in the season is better but is no guarantee.  In the solitude and calm of the autumn season, you can be assured that Yosemite will not disappoint even the most ardent leaf peeper.  Look for the landmark blazing red sugar maple near Yosemite Chapel and colorful black oaks in Superintendent’s Meadow. Take Tioga Road along the Merced River for some of the best fall foliage photo-ops.

Visitors should keep an eye out for mule deer and coyote, which are now seen frequently as they move from the higher elevations of the Sierra Nevada down into Yosemite Valley.  Bears should always be a concern – though not as frequently sighted.  Do not leave any food or sunscreen, toothpaste, shampoo, lotion, gum, candy and any other items that have a scent in your car. If camping, be certain to take precautions and use food storage lockers. 

Go
From the golden foothills of Sacramento, you have the benefit of missing all that pesky Central Valley traffic heading south. Your foothill perch provides easy access to one of California’s most scenic byways, Hwy. 49.  It’s always best to travel with a detailed map and Mapquest also provides some simple directions if need be.  It’s mostly downhill (sort of) to Hwy. 120, and coast into the Park.  There's no better way to begin this fall foliage sojourn.  As autumn flourishes, sightings of color along Hwy. 49 are clearly an added attraction to this multi-hued escape. 

Also known as the Golden Chain Heritage Corridor, Hwy. 49 passes through charming and historic towns.  Allow time to enjoy the sights and an occasional stop at towns along the way.  Amador City, Sutter Creek, Angels Camp, Sonora, and others offer outstanding opportunities for shopping, sightseeing, and maybe a fresh-baked loaf of bread or a glass of wine. California’s past lives on in these Gold Rush-era gems.  If you choose to bypass downtown Sonora's 2-lane traffic, a detour on Rawhide Road saves about 15-20 minutes of driving time.  

Hwy. 49 has more than it’s share of twists and turns and slow-moving vehicles.  Relax and enjoy the ride. Remember, getting there is half the fun, even with today’s soaring fuel prices. If you’ve never driven to Yosemite via Hwy. 120 you may want to avoid Old Priest Grade, which is recommended by Mapquest.  This incredibly steep, 2-mile stretch of road is not for the week-of-heart.  I love it and wouldn’t think of going any other way, but never with a trailer or motorhome!  Think about staying on Hwy. 120 on the west side of the canyon. This will meet Old Priest Grade at the top. About a 6-mile trek, the New Priest Grade bypass is longer and somewhat winding, but the easy ascent can easily accommodate trailers and motorhomes as it's the preferred route for tour buses.

If heading down the “vertical” Old Priest Grade, make sure your brakes are in good working order. 

Hwy. 120 passes through the Gold Rush-era town of Groveland, an excellent pit-stop or place to stay outside the Park if that’s your choice. Greeting guests since 1849, the 3-diamond Groveland Hotel’s Victorian Room is known for its extraordinary cuisine and wines; and the Iron Door Saloon (yes, real iron doors) is the longest continuously operated drinking establishment in California. Across the road, Hotel Charlotte offers convenient and comfortable lodging and dining, at Café Charlotte . BTW – both hotels are pet-friendly but call ahead to confirm availability of “pet” accommodations.  Something else they have in common: the Groveland Hotel owner’s name is Grover, and the Hotel Charlotte owner’s last name is Upthagrove. Strange but true!

About 23 miles from Groveland, is the Big Oak Flat entrance to the park. Here you’ll be required to purchase a $20 Vehicle Pass, valid for seven days.  Be sure to gas-up before heading into Yosemite Valley.  The “last chance” is at the intersection of Yosemite Lakes Road (Harden Flat), but it's typically 50 cents to a dollar per gallon more than the Valero station in the town of Big Oak Flat at the top of Priest Grade.  There's also another station in downtown Groveland, the very consumer-friendly Vern’s is all “full service” at self-serve prices!. Gas and propane are also available at Crane Flat, Wawona and Tuolumne Meadows (summer only). Without any detours, it’s about 160 miles from Serrano to Yosemite National Park. Depending on your speed and traffic, expect to be on the road at least 3 ½ hours. 

If you’re staying in Yosemite Valley, park your car and ride the hybrid electric shuttle to nearby attractions. It's green and environmentally friendly in a big way.  And will clearly save on the fueling sticker-shock.

Stay
Answering the lodging question may be the toughest: Is this a family outing? A romantic getaway for two? The budget?   Lodging possibilities range from the 4-diamond grand dame of the park, The Ahwahnee Hotel and the family-oriented Yosemite Lodge at the falls, to the Victorian elegance of the Wawona Hotel and Curry Village which includes motel rooms, cabins with and without baths, and unheated canvas tents.  Checking online will provide additional information about accommodations, amenities and rates, plus the availability of wonderfully priced packages. Plan early to give yourself the best options!

The majestic lady of Park lodging is The Ahwahnee. This celebrated, 4-diamond resort rests grandly among the pines and by the Royal Arches, a dramatic granite wall popular with climbers.  The Ahwahnee’s regal architectural details combine the best of the Art Deco and Arts & Crafts movements with a splash of Native American and Middle Eastern influences.  Spacious common areas and 99 elegantly appointed rooms – there’s not a bad view in the house – are romance personified.  Surrounded by dogwood trees, 24 cottages provide a private showing of dazzling red foliage during the Autumn season. Hotel rooms have stunning views of Half Dome, Glacier Point, and Lower Yosemite Falls (usually dry this time of year).  Yosemite Village is an easy walk or shuttle ride from the hotel.

Yosemite Lodge at the Falls is ideal for families with kids (or not).  There are 245 rooms including four family rooms – which include one double bed, three single beds, a sofa bed, and a dining table.  Daily maid service is available in each of the rooms.  After registering, be sure to check out the tour desk for upcoming activities.  The Lodge is located near Yosemite Falls.  Even though it’s dry this time of year, Yosemite Falls (the highest waterfall in North America) is still worth a look and a stroll along the Merced River. The Lodge complex also includes an outstanding gift shop and small convenience store, just in case!

Whether romance or family-time is on your agenda, the Victorian-era Wawona Hotel provides the best of all possibilities.  Located in the southern end of the park, this oldest of Yosemite accommodations is reminiscent of a soft Southern Belle. Sweeping verandas and Adirondack chairs whisper your name. Rooms with or without baths are available. If you’re really looking to escape any of the “crowds” in Yosemite Valley and still have endless possibilities of things to see and do…come to Wawona. 

Outside of the Park boundaries, Evergreen Lodge Yosemite offers couples and families a rare opportunity to enjoy all of Yosemite, including the little-visited Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.  A variety of fully-furnished cabins and cottages accommodate up to six guests. Or if you want something more natural, check-out their new “custom camping” rates.  It’s the beauty of sleeping under the stars, without any of the hassles of pitching a tent.

If you're on a budget, or even not, the laid-back and ever-so comfy Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort in Midpines offers a Hostel-friendly alternative. Private cottages, as well as dorm-style lodging, are available at unbelievable prices considering the proximtiy to the Park. The price of beautiful surroundings is free. The addtion of the new spa is a real plus after a long day hiking in the Valley. A $10 day-use pass is a deal!

Eat
The Ahwahnee Dining Room is a gourmet dining experience, with the heart of the menu steeped in California cuisine. Whenever possible, dishes feature both organic and sustainably-harvested, locally-grown ingredients. Ceiling-to-floor windows bring the beauty of Yosemite to your table. Reservations are recommended and proper attire for dinner is requested.

Within easy striking distance of Yosemite Lodge at the Falls is the Food Court, Mountain Room Restaurant, and Mountain Room Lounge.  The Food Court offers a cafeteria-styled selection of dining options. Kids will be happy to pick and choose their food favorites, and pre-packaged items are perfect for backpacking or hiking. After a day of sightseeing, unwind next to the Swedish-style fireplace at the Mountain Room Lounge where libations and lite-fare are available for lunch and dinner. The stylish Mountain Room Restaurant features more of Yosemite’s epicurean cuisine and provides a children’s menu for those under-developed taste buds. 

The Wawona Hotel serves more of the Park’s exceptional fare. End a day of exploration with Wawona’s Signature Flat Iron Steak and a piece of Big Trees Pine Nut Pie. It’s worth the drive to see this 1880s beauty who housed such celebrated guests as Ulysses S. Grant, Lily Langtry and President Theodore Roosevelt. The hotel is closed in January.

Built in 1921, the main lodge at Evergreen houses their restaurant and historic tavern.  Three meals-a-day are served or you can “grab-and-go” if you’re anxious to hit the trail.  Other snacks, freshly-made sandwiches, ice cream, and sodas are available at the General Store. If weather permits, dine al fresco on the front porch or outdoor dining area.  Kid-friendly food is served!

There are endless feasting opportunities within Yosemite Valley. The Village has the largest collection of “fast food” from tacos and burritos to deli sandwiches, burgers, and drinks. Picnic lunches can also be arranged through your hotel.  Other snacking options are available at Glacier Point and the Wawona Golf Shop. Some places are open seasonally, so check online or ask at your front desk before heading out. 

The on-sight restaurant at Yosemite Bug is pretty gourmet and priced for the truly hungry. It has vegetarian AND vegan options, plus heartier fare such as lamb shanks and NY steaks for the not-so vegetarian types. If you're on a stricter budget or just want to be domestic, there's a communal kitchen for you to prepare your own food.

Play
With so much to see and do, you may find yourself trying to do too much.  Pick two or three top things; you’re bound to find more to do once you arrive.  Learn the lay-of-the-land and begin to plan return trips.
 
The Yosemite Valley Floor Tour, it’s highly recommended! The guided two-hour tour is an excellent introduction to Yosemite’s history and nature, and includes some of the most picturesque spots.  Special sunset and moonlight tours are offered seasonally.

Nighttime is the right time for parents and kids.  Story Time for Kids (12 and under) and Wee Wild Ones (interactive program for 6 and under) are free and no pre-registration is required.  Look for programs highlighted in color in the “Yosemite Today” as they are geared for children and families.

At the Wawona, the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias is a short four-mile drive…or hike if you’re feeling energetic. A tram tour is also available. A ½-mile away, don’t miss the chance to walk across the 130-foot Wawona covered bridge – the only covered bridge in the National Park System and one of 11 in California. Built in 1878, the bridge crosses the south fork of the Merced River and leads to the 1880s Pioneer History Center.

Stay, play, eat – you decide – the Vintner’s Holiday is the real deal for couples visiting Yosemite early November and December.  Wine enthusiasts can avail themselves of two- and three-night packages at The Ahwahnee or Yosemite Lodge at the Falls.  Packages include lodging for two, admission to four tasting seminars, one “Meet the Vintners” reception and one gala dinner.  A five-night option is also available.  Visitors are welcome, free of charge, at all Vintner’s Holiday seminars and panel discussions, and may also purchase gala dinner tickets. It's not too soon to check-out Bracebridge Dinners in December...a once in a lifetime experience!

Hike
Many guided hikes can be arranged once you arrive in the Park.  Check at the Tour Activity, lodging registration, or Concierge desks.  Always carry plenty of water; wear a hat and sunscreen; stay on marked trails; and remember the “Leave No Trace” philosophy of pack-it in and pack-it out.

Yosemite Falls is dry this time of year. Have heart! Nevada and Vernal falls are not. The Nevada and Vernal falls trail is the Park’s most popular. Not at their most spectacular, they are definitely less crowded in the Autumn and magnificent anytime of the year.  Along the well-maintained Mist Trail, the hike to the top of Nevada Fall is 3.4 miles from the trailhead in Yosemite Valley. Anyone with patience and fitness can make it to the top. The Vernal Fall hike – the first 1.4 miles – is great you’re less ambitious, but still interested in a great destination hike. Pay attention to the signs noting the dangers of the waterfalls!

A high country excursion to Lembert Dome in Tuolumne Meadows provides stunning views and an easy hike (one-mile roundtrip) – a low work-out commitment with high returns. Gorgeous in autumn. For a full-day commitment, the hike to the Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp (5.7 miles one-way) is all that and more!  Isolated stands of aspen along the Tuolumne River have impressive displays of yellow, orange and red.  This area was burned in forest fire many years ago; the surviving aspens are bravura. Both hikes are reached via Hwy. 120/Tioga Road.  If you’re not going on a guided tour, be sure to pick-up trail maps and directions.

Birch Lake, a 1/2-mile walk from Evergreen Lodge, delivers-up an idyllic meadow and lake lined by glowing birch trees.

Guided roundtrip and one-way tours to Glacier Point can be arranged through the Park or Evergreen Lodge.  Vistas from the top, 3,200 feet above the Valley, are some of the most spectacular with views of: Half Dome, and Yosemite, Nevada, and Vernal falls.  The Yosemite Association (recently merged with Yosemite Fund to form the Yosemite Conservancy), a not-for-profit educational organization, also provides a series of seminars tours, and customized trips. Y-Explore Yosemite Adventures offers a wide-range of guided tours, naturalist walks, and photography sessions.

How
For comprehensive information on how to Go, Stay, Eat, Play and Hike on your Falling for Yosemite escape call or check online. Check for lodging packages which may include meals or special amenities.

 Yosemite National Park:  www.YosemitePark.com and www.NPS.gov/yose;   
  or call 559/252-4848.  Reservations for activities can be made seven days in advance by  calling     209/372-1240 or when you arrive at your lodging.
 Evergreen Lodge Yosemite: www.EvergreenLodge.com
 Groveland Hotel:  www.Groveland.com
 Hotel Charlotte:  www.HotelCharlotte.com
 Yosemite Association: www.Yosemite.org
 Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort:  www.YosemiteBug.com
 Y-Explore Yosemite Adventures:  www.YExplore.com
 CalTRANS Road Information: 800/427-7623: www.DOT.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo
 Forest Service Fall Foliage Hot Line:  www.FS.fed.us/news/fallcolors.
 Some babysitting services can be arranged at Yosemite Lodge or the Ahwahnee – but you need to arrange as far in advance as possible

Autumn Colors Paint Yosemite Valley Photo by Keith Walklet

Falling for Yosemite 
by Barbara L. Steinberg©

 For most of us, Labor Day signaled the unofficial end of summer.  Vacations are over.  Kids are back in school. It was the last bonafide summer holiday weekend and, from this point forward it’s a slow, steady slide into the New Year.

Each year, the Fall Equinox occurs around September 23rd. The sun crosses the celestial equator, from north to south, heralding the end of summer and marking the official start of autumn. Professed or scientific – it’s autumn!  The days are shorter; shadows are longer; nights are cooler; and you can feel the change in the air.  It’s inspirational!  It’s also one of the best and most inspired times of year to visit Yosemite National Park!

When it comes to visiting Yosemite, fewer travelers visit in this “off-season.”  Annually, millions of people throng to see the splendor of the granite cliffs, cascading falls, giant sequoias, and the grandeur made famous by the likes of John Muir and Ansel Adams.  During late spring and throughout the summer months, Yosemite is teeming with guests from around the world.  There’s more traffic and making lodging reservations, especially within the park, can be a challenge.  Post-summer, the visitor-tide ebbs and the Park begins an unhurried progression into a seasonal hibernation.  Fewer cars on the roads in, out, and around the park, is definitely a big plus. The availability of lodging – at all levels – is much more attainable.  And rates start to fall, ever so slightly, usually towards the end of October. 

The autumn weather remains comfy with daytime temps warm enough for shorts and river sandals such as Teva and Keen; nights can be chilly but cozy – even more so as the autumn season evolves. Changes in temperatures and weather should be considered when packing.  Better to err on the conservative side – the layered approach is usually best – and remember that rain and early snow is always a possibility; come prepared.

Yosemite Valley is famous for its colorful dogwoods – shades of pink and red; and California live oaks turn a golden amber color mid-October to November.  Throughout the season aspens adorn themselves with seasonal hues.  The onset of autumn colors can’t be timed.  Lengthening nights and colder temperatures signal the change. So in other words, later in the season is better but is no guarantee.  In the solitude and calm of the autumn season, you can be assured that Yosemite will not disappoint even the most ardent leaf peeper.  Look for the landmark blazing red sugar maple near Yosemite Chapel and colorful black oaks in Superintendent’s Meadow. Take Tioga Road along the Merced River for some of the best fall foliage photo-ops.

Visitors should keep an eye out for mule deer and coyote, which are now seen frequently as they move from the higher elevations of the Sierra Nevada down into Yosemite Valley.  Bears should always be a concern – though not as frequently sighted.  Do not leave any food or sunscreen, toothpaste, shampoo, lotion, gum, candy and any other items that have a scent in your car. If camping, be certain to take precautions and use food storage lockers. 

Go
From the golden foothills of Sacramento, you have the benefit of missing all that pesky Central Valley traffic heading south. Your foothill perch provides easy access to one of California’s most scenic byways, Hwy. 49.  It’s always best to travel with a detailed map and Mapquest also provides some simple directions if need be.  It’s mostly downhill (sort of) to Hwy. 120, and coast into the Park.  There's no better way to begin this fall foliage sojourn.  As autumn flourishes, sightings of color along Hwy. 49 are clearly an added attraction to this multi-hued escape. 

Also known as the Golden Chain Heritage Corridor, Hwy. 49 passes through charming and historic towns.  Allow time to enjoy the sights and an occasional stop at towns along the way.  Amador City, Sutter Creek, Angels Camp, Sonora, and others offer outstanding opportunities for shopping, sightseeing, and maybe a fresh-baked loaf of bread or a glass of wine. California’s past lives on in these Gold Rush-era gems.  If you choose to bypass downtown Sonora's 2-lane traffic, a detour on Rawhide Road saves about 15-20 minutes of driving time.  

Hwy. 49 has more than it’s share of twists and turns and slow-moving vehicles.  Relax and enjoy the ride. Remember, getting there is half the fun, even with today’s soaring fuel prices. If you’ve never driven to Yosemite via Hwy. 120 you may want to avoid Old Priest Grade, which is recommended by Mapquest.  This incredibly steep, 2-mile stretch of road is not for the week-of-heart.  I love it and wouldn’t think of going any other way, but never with a trailer or motorhome!  Think about staying on Hwy. 120 on the west side of the canyon. This will meet Old Priest Grade at the top. About a 6-mile trek, the New Priest Grade bypass is longer and somewhat winding, but the easy ascent can easily accommodate trailers and motorhomes as it's the preferred route for tour buses.

If heading down the “vertical” Old Priest Grade, make sure your brakes are in good working order. 

Hwy. 120 passes through the Gold Rush-era town of Groveland, an excellent pit-stop or place to stay outside the Park if that’s your choice. Greeting guests since 1849, the 3-diamond Groveland Hotel’s Victorian Room is known for its extraordinary cuisine and wines; and the Iron Door Saloon (yes, real iron doors) is the longest continuously operated drinking establishment in California. Across the road, Hotel Charlotte offers convenient and comfortable lodging and dining, at Café Charlotte . BTW – both hotels are pet-friendly but call ahead to confirm availability of “pet” accommodations.  Something else they have in common: the Groveland Hotel owner’s name is Grover, and the Hotel Charlotte owner’s last name is Upthagrove. Strange but true!

About 23 miles from Groveland, is the Big Oak Flat entrance to the park. Here you’ll be required to purchase a $20 Vehicle Pass, valid for seven days.  Be sure to gas-up before heading into Yosemite Valley.  The “last chance” is at the intersection of Yosemite Lakes Road (Harden Flat), but it's typically 50 cents to a dollar per gallon more than the Valero station in the town of Big Oak Flat at the top of Priest Grade.  There's also another station in downtown Groveland, the very consumer-friendly Vern’s is all “full service” at self-serve prices!. Gas and propane are also available at Crane Flat, Wawona and Tuolumne Meadows (summer only). Without any detours, it’s about 160 miles from Serrano to Yosemite National Park. Depending on your speed and traffic, expect to be on the road at least 3 ½ hours. 

If you’re staying in Yosemite Valley, park your car and ride the hybrid electric shuttle to nearby attractions. It's green and environmentally friendly in a big way.  And will clearly save on the fueling sticker-shock.

Stay
Answering the lodging question may be the toughest: Is this a family outing? A romantic getaway for two? The budget?   Lodging possibilities range from the 4-diamond grand dame of the park, The Ahwahnee Hotel and the family-oriented Yosemite Lodge at the falls, to the Victorian elegance of the Wawona Hotel and Curry Village which includes motel rooms, cabins with and without baths, and unheated canvas tents.  Checking online will provide additional information about accommodations, amenities and rates, plus the availability of wonderfully priced packages. Plan early to give yourself the best options!

The majestic lady of Park lodging is The Ahwahnee. This celebrated, 4-diamond resort rests grandly among the pines and by the Royal Arches, a dramatic granite wall popular with climbers.  The Ahwahnee’s regal architectural details combine the best of the Art Deco and Arts & Crafts movements with a splash of Native American and Middle Eastern influences.  Spacious common areas and 99 elegantly appointed rooms – there’s not a bad view in the house – are romance personified.  Surrounded by dogwood trees, 24 cottages provide a private showing of dazzling red foliage during the Autumn season. Hotel rooms have stunning views of Half Dome, Glacier Point, and Lower Yosemite Falls (usually dry this time of year).  Yosemite Village is an easy walk or shuttle ride from the hotel.

Yosemite Lodge at the Falls is ideal for families with kids (or not).  There are 245 rooms including four family rooms – which include one double bed, three single beds, a sofa bed, and a dining table.  Daily maid service is available in each of the rooms.  After registering, be sure to check out the tour desk for upcoming activities.  The Lodge is located near Yosemite Falls.  Even though it’s dry this time of year, Yosemite Falls (the highest waterfall in North America) is still worth a look and a stroll along the Merced River. The Lodge complex also includes an outstanding gift shop and small convenience store, just in case!

Whether romance or family-time is on your agenda, the Victorian-era Wawona Hotel provides the best of all possibilities.  Located in the southern end of the park, this oldest of Yosemite accommodations is reminiscent of a soft Southern Belle. Sweeping verandas and Adirondack chairs whisper your name. Rooms with or without baths are available. If you’re really looking to escape any of the “crowds” in Yosemite Valley and still have endless possibilities of things to see and do…come to Wawona. 

Outside of the Park boundaries, Evergreen Lodge Yosemite offers couples and families a rare opportunity to enjoy all of Yosemite, including the little-visited Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.  A variety of fully-furnished cabins and cottages accommodate up to six guests. Or if you want something more natural, check-out their new “custom camping” rates.  It’s the beauty of sleeping under the stars, without any of the hassles of pitching a tent.

If you're on a budget, or even not, the laid-back and ever-so comfy Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort in Midpines offers a Hostel-friendly alternative. Private cottages, as well as dorm-style lodging, are available at unbelievable prices considering the proximtiy to the Park. The price of beautiful surroundings is free. The addtion of the new spa is a real plus after a long day hiking in the Valley. A $10 day-use pass is a deal!

Eat
The Ahwahnee Dining Room is a gourmet dining experience, with the heart of the menu steeped in California cuisine. Whenever possible, dishes feature both organic and sustainably-harvested, locally-grown ingredients. Ceiling-to-floor windows bring the beauty of Yosemite to your table. Reservations are recommended and proper attire for dinner is requested.

Within easy striking distance of Yosemite Lodge at the Falls is the Food Court, Mountain Room Restaurant, and Mountain Room Lounge.  The Food Court offers a cafeteria-styled selection of dining options. Kids will be happy to pick and choose their food favorites, and pre-packaged items are perfect for backpacking or hiking. After a day of sightseeing, unwind next to the Swedish-style fireplace at the Mountain Room Lounge where libations and lite-fare are available for lunch and dinner. The stylish Mountain Room Restaurant features more of Yosemite’s epicurean cuisine and provides a children’s menu for those under-developed taste buds. 

The Wawona Hotel serves more of the Park’s exceptional fare. End a day of exploration with Wawona’s Signature Flat Iron Steak and a piece of Big Trees Pine Nut Pie. It’s worth the drive to see this 1880s beauty who housed such celebrated guests as Ulysses S. Grant, Lily Langtry and President Theodore Roosevelt. The hotel is closed in January.

Built in 1921, the main lodge at Evergreen houses their restaurant and historic tavern.  Three meals-a-day are served or you can “grab-and-go” if you’re anxious to hit the trail.  Other snacks, freshly-made sandwiches, ice cream, and sodas are available at the General Store. If weather permits, dine al fresco on the front porch or outdoor dining area.  Kid-friendly food is served!

There are endless feasting opportunities within Yosemite Valley. The Village has the largest collection of “fast food” from tacos and burritos to deli sandwiches, burgers, and drinks. Picnic lunches can also be arranged through your hotel.  Other snacking options are available at Glacier Point and the Wawona Golf Shop. Some places are open seasonally, so check online or ask at your front desk before heading out. 

The on-sight restaurant at Yosemite Bug is pretty gourmet and priced for the truly hungry. It has vegetarian AND vegan options, plus heartier fare such as lamb shanks and NY steaks for the not-so vegetarian types. If you're on a stricter budget or just want to be domestic, there's a communal kitchen for you to prepare your own food.

Play
With so much to see and do, you may find yourself trying to do too much.  Pick two or three top things; you’re bound to find more to do once you arrive.  Learn the lay-of-the-land and begin to plan return trips.
 
The Yosemite Valley Floor Tour, it’s highly recommended! The guided two-hour tour is an excellent introduction to Yosemite’s history and nature, and includes some of the most picturesque spots.  Special sunset and moonlight tours are offered seasonally.

Nighttime is the right time for parents and kids.  Story Time for Kids (12 and under) and Wee Wild Ones (interactive program for 6 and under) are free and no pre-registration is required.  Look for programs highlighted in color in the “Yosemite Today” as they are geared for children and families.

At the Wawona, the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias is a short four-mile drive…or hike if you’re feeling energetic. A tram tour is also available. A ½-mile away, don’t miss the chance to walk across the 130-foot Wawona covered bridge – the only covered bridge in the National Park System and one of 11 in California. Built in 1878, the bridge crosses the south fork of the Merced River and leads to the 1880s Pioneer History Center.

Stay, play, eat – you decide – the Vintner’s Holiday is the real deal for couples visiting Yosemite early November and December.  Wine enthusiasts can avail themselves of two- and three-night packages at The Ahwahnee or Yosemite Lodge at the Falls.  Packages include lodging for two, admission to four tasting seminars, one “Meet the Vintners” reception and one gala dinner.  A five-night option is also available.  Visitors are welcome, free of charge, at all Vintner’s Holiday seminars and panel discussions, and may also purchase gala dinner tickets. It's not too soon to check-out Bracebridge Dinners in December...a once in a lifetime experience!

Hike
Many guided hikes can be arranged once you arrive in the Park.  Check at the Tour Activity, lodging registration, or Concierge desks.  Always carry plenty of water; wear a hat and sunscreen; stay on marked trails; and remember the “Leave No Trace” philosophy of pack-it in and pack-it out.

Yosemite Falls is dry this time of year. Have heart! Nevada and Vernal falls are not. The Nevada and Vernal falls trail is the Park’s most popular. Not at their most spectacular, they are definitely less crowded in the Autumn and magnificent anytime of the year.  Along the well-maintained Mist Trail, the hike to the top of Nevada Fall is 3.4 miles from the trailhead in Yosemite Valley. Anyone with patience and fitness can make it to the top. The Vernal Fall hike – the first 1.4 miles – is great you’re less ambitious, but still interested in a great destination hike. Pay attention to the signs noting the dangers of the waterfalls!

A high country excursion to Lembert Dome in Tuolumne Meadows provides stunning views and an easy hike (one-mile roundtrip) – a low work-out commitment with high returns. Gorgeous in autumn. For a full-day commitment, the hike to the Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp (5.7 miles one-way) is all that and more!  Isolated stands of aspen along the Tuolumne River have impressive displays of yellow, orange and red.  This area was burned in forest fire many years ago; the surviving aspens are bravura. Both hikes are reached via Hwy. 120/Tioga Road.  If you’re not going on a guided tour, be sure to pick-up trail maps and directions.

Birch Lake, a 1/2-mile walk from Evergreen Lodge, delivers-up an idyllic meadow and lake lined by glowing birch trees.

Guided roundtrip and one-way tours to Glacier Point can be arranged through the Park or Evergreen Lodge.  Vistas from the top, 3,200 feet above the Valley, are some of the most spectacular with views of: Half Dome, and Yosemite, Nevada, and Vernal falls.  The Yosemite Association (recently merged with Yosemite Fund to form the Yosemite Conservancy), a not-for-profit educational organization, also provides a series of seminars tours, and customized trips. Y-Explore Yosemite Adventures offers a wide-range of guided tours, naturalist walks, and photography sessions.

How
For comprehensive information on how to Go, Stay, Eat, Play and Hike on your Falling for Yosemite escape call or check online. Check for lodging packages which may include meals or special amenities.

 Yosemite National Park:  www.YosemitePark.com and www.NPS.gov/yose;   
  or call 559/252-4848.  Reservations for activities can be made seven days in advance by  calling     209/372-1240 or when you arrive at your lodging.
 Evergreen Lodge Yosemite: www.EvergreenLodge.com
 Groveland Hotel:  www.Groveland.com
 Hotel Charlotte:  www.HotelCharlotte.com
 Yosemite Association: www.Yosemite.org
 Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort:  www.YosemiteBug.com
 Y-Explore Yosemite Adventures:  www.YExplore.com
 CalTRANS Road Information: 800/427-7623: www.DOT.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo
 Forest Service Fall Foliage Hot Line:  www.FS.fed.us/news/fallcolors.
 Some babysitting services can be arranged at Yosemite Lodge or the Ahwahnee – but you need to arrange as far in advance as possible

OFF THE ROAD, OFF THE GRID

Mercey Hot Springs Story & Photos by Barbara L. Steinberg

Sometimes I hate to share all of my best California secrets, but here I go again!

No need to beg for mercy at Mercey Hot Springs, there's plenty to see, do, and enjoy! Out of the way and way off-road -- 13 miles from Interstate 5 and many more miles from scenic Hwy. 25 -- this historic hot springs resort (don't be thinking 5-stars) is worth the drive. This is especially true if you enjoy solitude, open spaces, and a clothing optional hot springs soak!

The full-size swimming pool -- hot springs water -- is available during the better weather. The pool and decking have been refurbished and a series of new soaking tubs added. Also added were two full baths. All that you want and more. This area of the resort is clothed and provides more options for visitors. The upgrades are fantastic.

The rustic cabins have all been restored. The cabins are tiny and only outdoor BBQs for cooking, so come prepared for a little roughing it on the soft side. You can bring your own Coleman stove or utilize one of the fire pits. For a little more money, the #5 cabin has a kitchenette. So ask about availability. There's no TV, but through the marvels of science WiFi has been added. Don't know if that's a good thing or not! No escaping technology even in this remote corner of Californa.

  The outhouses are the nicest I have ever seen! There are a couple of private soaking tubs in one of the ramshackle buildings, which also includes the most marvelous reptile mosaic. The restoration of the historic buildings has been done with their history in mind. Though modern conveniences have been added, the buildings maintain a weathered look and feel. Come spring, the hillsides and valleys bring forth a profusion of wildflowers after a wet winter. Even in the fall, the drive into Mercey delivers undulating golden hills of the Central Valley and Little Panoche Valley. A stunning view; so take it slow.

In the meantime, a colony of long- eared owls has taken up residence at Mercey. They arrive in late summer/early autumn and stay until Spring, nesting and birthing their babies. It's a sight to behold!  Day visitors can pay a fee to stop and see these wise birds.

The most amazing part is that the owners have created a completely green environment and everything is off the grid. There's solar, bio-diesel, and wind! Quite an accomplishment.

There are many hidden hot springs throughout Caliornia and I hope to visit each and every one. In this northwest corner of Fresno County, you are truly away from it all. I recenlty spent another quiet weekend at this delightful retreat. My Subaru taking me happily off-road and on. There are many wonderful back roads in the area and other historic sights to see. Enjoy the ride.

And a slide show of photos!

California, Hot Springs, California, Travelfresno, san francisco